PLANT CULTIVARS / FORMS THAT SOLVE PROBLEMS

In the horticultural world, countless numbers of plant cultivars have been discovered and propagated to produce more desirable forms of desired plants. These include dwarf or other growth forms (such as upright, pendulous, prostrate);  foliage color and texture (including variegations, leaf color, leaf forms); and improved adaptability(including tolerance to environmental or climatic conditions that are better than the species) .  There are so many new cultivars being created that growers can’t keep up with them., so they are less known or often hard to find.

A cultivar is a subdivision of a variety/species that identifies a plant characteristic which originated in nature but can only be replicated by asexual reproduction and human intervention.  In other words, it is a sport and began as a genetic mutation that was discovered by someone and reproduced as a clone

I even discovered one of these mutations but was unable to save it as a new cultivar – a variegated yaupon holly.  To this day, there. still is no variegated form of this plant in the horticultural trade.     I did discover a variegated form of Hamelia patens which lives to this day in my garden and is recognized on Dave’s Garden named “Beyer’s Variegated’.  So anyone with a sharp eye can discover a new cultivar of any plant.  Some are worthy of marketing, many are not but are novelties.

Here’s an example of how cultivars of desired plants can help solve garden and landscape problems.  Most of us live in small residential sized yard communities where space is limited.  We recently converted our entire yard to xeriscaping where perennials and shrubs take the place of turf grass.   We researched native and adaptive plants that met requirements of ranging from 1 to no taller than 3’ height, both deciduous, hardy, and evergreen.  Our desired plant choices included use of Jerusalem Sage,  Copper Canyon Daisy Texas Sage, and Fragrant Sumac, but all these plants grow to 6’and larger.

Research on the internet found dwarf cultivars or forms of each of these plants –  Phlomis lanata, a dwarf Jerusalem sage that gets no higher than 3’, albeit a different species rather than a cultivar; Tagates lemmonnii ‘compacta’, a cultivar of Copper Canyon Daisy that remains compact;  ‘Siverado’, a dwarf form of the Texas Sage that grows compact and can easily be maintained at a small size, and ‘Gro-low’, a cultivar of Fragrant Sumac that stays 2’ tall and spreads to 6’.  Another example of a problem solving cultivar is the upright yaupon. Ilex vomitoria ‘Will Fleming’ discovered in Hempstead, Texas.   This plant is ideal for a corner planting and takes up only a square foot of ground space.  There is a dwarf cultivar of Hamelia patens that is much smaller than the species but provides the same ornamental features in smaller size.  Then there is Miscanthus sinensis ‘gold bar, a dwarf cultivar of the Zebra grass – itself a cultivar,  that gets only 2’ tall rather than over 5; tall.   Then there is the dwarf cultivar of Mexican Bush Sage called “Santa Barbara” which is very compact but retains the desirable characteristics of the species.  In the way of desired shrubs for our area, the dwarf Pomegranite and dwarf Barbados Cherry are highly desirable over the much larger natural species.  Dwarf forms of Crepe Myrtle abound.  There is even a dwarf species of the fast growing Wax Myrtle that stays below 4’ – Myrica pusilla..  So you may not have to give up growing a plant you like because it gets to big.

In fact,  so many plants that we desire to have in our gardens may come in a dwarf, space saving, problem solving form.  The first challenge is to find them through internet research, then find a source, or a retail nursery willing to order it from a grower for you.

I focus this article on dwarf forms of plants because with limited space, they allow you to grow a larger variety of plants in a given amount of space, which adds interest and variety to your garden.  They reduce maintenance chores as well by growing much slower.  Do keep in mind that variegated plant cultivars also grow at a much slower rate than the parent plants and can also help in space limited areas.

Ironically, I discovered a perennial plant for my garden that went the opposite direction – a shrub form of Verbena rather than the prostrate ground cover form I was accustomed to.  I am amazed at how many varieties and forms there are of our favorite garden plants that can fit a specific need or niche in our gardens. An excellent example of this is the research Texas A&M has done with ‘earthkind’ roses to develop and introduce water saving, drought tolerant, and disease resistant roses which are a favorite plant for our gardens and landscapes.

On my wish list of new cultivar discoveries that haven’t been found yet includes a dwarf form of Yellow Bells Esperanza.  Wouldn’t that be something!  Well, maybe someday.  New cultivars are being discovered all the time and introduced into the nursery trade. Be looking for them.  I sure am!

Pictured below are examples of dwarf cultivars that save space.  Top to bottom, left to right are Miscanthus sinensis ‘gold bar’ (dwarf zebra grass),  Phlomis lanata (dwarf Jerusalem sage),  Tagates lemmonii ‘compacta’ (dwarf copper canyon daisy), and Hamelia patens ‘nana ‘ (dwarf hummingbird bush).

A NEW YEAR AND NEW GARDEN OPPORTUNITIES

Gardeners – get out of your beds  (pun fully intended) and into your study.  A new gardening year awaits your attention.  What are your gardening intentions for the new year?  What get’s created should be planned before and  maintained afterward, not just enjoyed when in prime time.   So get your thinking hats on and think out of the box (you know, that old rut that says follow me and I will lead you nowhere new). Here are some ideas for your new garden year

Use internet resources more to learn about new plants and gardening in your specific area.   Get to know what you grow.

Once you’ve done your homework, grow plants you never have had experience with in the past (especially natives and adaptives).

Plan your gardens to succeed within the environmental and climatic realities, rather than preferences.   Learn when is the proper time to make changes.

Break a few pencil leads and wear down a few erasers to put ideas on paper first, then analyze, revise, and improvise until you are satisfied.

Develop a gardening strategy for years into the future, not just the coming year.   For example, intentionally make changes so you garden will have a new look from year to year.  Those changes can be to hardscaping, area design, choice of plants, etc.    A garden is always a work in process and never completed!

Become active with other gardener groups, networks, and organizations to learn and share experiences that will be mutually beneficial.  Share and swap plants with other gardeners.  Make gardening a social activity in your life.

Resolve to be an environmentally friendly gardener – no use of chemical pesticides, fungicides, and chemical fertilizers.  Go organic, use more compost, and learn how to be a water saving gardener.

If not already, consider becoming a Master Gardener.  The training you’ll receive is equivalent to a short college level course in horticulture designed for our local level, and the opportunity to serve the local gardening community is rewarding.

Resolve to enjoy your garden more and in new ways, such as photographing the beauty of it,  learning how to propagate more plants,  adding artistry to the garden, or developing new ways to reduce maintenance needs.

Winter is an excellent time to do structural changes to your garden, e.g. add new hardscaping, develop and nurture new beds,  and any other preparatory work needed to ensure garden and landscaping success during the upcoming growing season. 

Thinking out of the box will be my goal for 2012.  My gardening has always been focused on perennials and ornamentals, and I have resisted seasonal gardening such as growing veggies.  I have redeveloped my gardening space to allow space for a vegetable garden this year – a new experience for an old gardener.

In view of the harsh summer of 2011, I have been gradually shifting my choice of plants from tender tropical and special care plants to native, adaptable, and tough plants that will endure our climatic extremes in Central Texas.   We have completed the front yard phase, and are continuing to completely redevelop the rest of our yard to be xeriphytic and find that quite liberating in terms of reducing personal stress in addition to the physical stress on our plants.

The most important thing is to garden “intentionally”, not impulsively or haphazardly and there is no better time to begin the process of planning for the new garden season than during the dormant winter months where physical gardening activity comes to a standstill.  Use this time to plant some new thoughts (yes pun intended again) before it’s time to plant new plants for the coming garden season.

A NEW XERISCAPED FRONT YARD

Following a devastatingly hot and dry summer, reality has set in and we knew we had to made a dramatic change to our landscape in view of future forecasts of continuing drier and hotter than normal weather for years to come.  So we designed an entirely new front yard landscape which removed all St. Augustine turf and replaced it with native and adaptive perennials in hardwood mulched areas and a minimum of turf area using prairie buffalo grass.  HOA guidelines had to be followed and fortunately our HOA has proactively adopted xeriphytic landscaping guidelines and encourages this transformation.

We are not unlike most homeowners with a small residential lot, who have a limited budget so cost was indeed a consideration.   Our approach to constructing this in a cost effective way was as follows:

1,  Identify those tasks that are beyond our physical or technical capability and contract that work.  In our case that resulted in St. Augustine turf removal (done effectively with a strong weed eater) and some masonry work to expand a raised bed to match the house architecture.

 2.  Identify and stage materials needed.  This mainly involved purchasing of 4” steel bordering strips to outline turf vs. mulched areas and to provide bordering along property lines to keep out neighbors St. Augustine grass.

 3,  Gather decorative limestone boulders and rock from construction sites when permissible or possible.  You never know when or how these can be used in a garden landscape.  We were able to use natural rock that we collected 5 years ago which saved a lot.

 4.  Do construction work in planned phases, pacing the work so that as each step progresses, you can better envision the outcome and make any necessary adjustments during rather than after construction.   In our case, the steps were grass removal, bordering, masonry and dry river bed building, sodding, mulching and stone pathways, and final perennial planting.

5.  Order natural materials in bulk a day ahead of placement.  We first ordered a palette of buffalo grass and layed it the next day, followed by hardwood mulch – also spread the next day.  Any surplus materials were used elsewhere in the yard.

 6.  Any sod work requires loosening the soil, shaping and tampering the sod firmly and watering daily for up to 3 weeks following to ensure the grass has taken root.   Our sodded areas are about 1/3^rd of the total front yard area.  Buffalo grass, when 3-4” tall will add a nice contrast to the mulched perennial beds.

7.  Last step is the planting of perennials.  We chose natives that will provide a variety of flowering colors and textures, using the City of Austin Grow Green book as our primary reference.  Finding sources may be challenging at times but local nurseries were able to order the plants they didn’t already have which met our needs.  Our planting layout incorporated evergreen with deciduous plants in groupings.

 8.  The last step was the placement of decorative natural rocks and boulders to provide a natural look.  These are the rocks we had collected and saved over time.   We added some additional décor like three décor pots of different sizes and coloring in a grouping.

 9.  Our curbside strip was incorporated into the overall front yard landscape as well to give it a unified look and feel.

 Now the final accounting.  We were able to do all this work in a weeks time (being retired), not counting the time developing the design and plan, The total cost was below $2,000.  Normally we wouldn’t consider spending even that much on landscaping, but consider it an investment that will pay off time and time again as we enter a period of water restriction and continued unfavorable climate conditions.  We will use much less water, have to do much less work to maintain it, and get to enjoy a variety of beautiful native/adaptive plants rather than just look at a solid green (or dead looking) St. Augustine lawn.

We share this story with you because we feel many are reluctant to take this plunge for a variety of reasons.  If we in our late 60’s, on a fixed retirement income, can do it, so can you.  The important thing is to realize that it is a good investment of time and resources that will provide years of benefit to you and your neighbors down the road.  Our next step is to do the same to the back yard in spring 2012.   So bye bye St. Augustine grass.  We won’t miss you! You will note that this landscape doesn’t have a ‘desert’ look which is a common misconception of xeriscaping.  Xeriscape means using water saving plants of all types.  Hopefully, you will be inspired to go xeriphytic also.

BEFORE AND AFTER XERISCAPING

GUT CHECK TIME FOR CENTRAL TEXAS LANDSCAPES

Biting the bullet and endorsing a need for change is a tough thing for a gardener, or any other person in any other situation where traditional and favored ways aren’t working anymore.  How far will we go before we are convinced that change is the best alternative?  Will dead St. Augustine lawns , dying shrubs, trees and garden perennials be enough?   Will water restrictions and fruitless efforts to save our favorite non-adaptable plants be enough?  This is central Texas and we have been taught a lesson this summer that should hit every gardener’s and homeowner’s nerve.  Ninety days of 100+ temperatures, 23 inch shortfall in rain over the past year, lake reservoir water levels over 50’ below capacity and resulting water rationing, and dire predictions of longer term drought and heat has provided overwhelming evidence that our landscapes must change in order to survive.

We have reached that point and made that decision.  Have you?   This fall, all water thirsty (and now dead) St. Augustine grass is being removed and replaced with a combination of Buffalo grass and hardwood mulch with native shrubs and perennials blended in.  We have a thoroughly thought through plan and design for re-landscaping our front yard on a limited budget.  It will mean doing most of the work ourselves (and we are seniors), with some contracted help for tasks beyond our physical capability such as grass removal.  The dead grass removed adds to the compost pile.  Overall, we have found this process to not be a negative but very positive experience in several ways.

We have studied, researched, and learned about native and adaptive plants over many years but now have an opportunity and compelling reason to creatively design a natural and pleasant landscape using these tough and enduring plants.   We have taken a systematic approach to planning the new front yard such as defining which areas will be turfed with Buffalo grass vs. mulch covering, micro-environmental factors affecting plant choice, defining plants by type, height, and desired characteristics (with the help of the wonderful City of Austin Grow Green book), and defining materials needed to implement the plan.  In any DIY project, work must be phased appropriately from high to lower priority tasks and in do-able stages.  Before we break ground, we break pencil leads first and document our plan thoroughly.  We drove around to view and take pictures of what others have done to see what we like and dislike.  This helps in our conceptualization.

Other positives are that we won’t have to spend money on lawn care or have to mow our lawn in the heat of summer. Our lawnmower will become a surplus item. We will save money on our water bills and know we are helping our environment. The up-front effort and hard work will pay off many times over in years to come.

Facing changing realities and taking proactive steps to get ahead of the game is beneficial.  In 2001, we foresaw gas prices skyrocketing and fuel shortages lingering in the future, so converted to hybrid vehicles which we still drive 10 years later.  Today we see climate warming proving to be a reality and are thinking a decade in advance in planning and implementing a landscape that will meet this future challenge.  Waiting for a crisis to hit before acting will be much more painful than taking preventive measures today;.

Let me share some ideas that might be helpful.  If you have spreadsheet software like Excel, making row height equal to column width creates graph paper, each square being 1 sq. ft.  A good area diagram can be hand or computer drawn (in pencil with a good eraser) for planning purposes first defining what’s there, what will remain there, and what will be added or changed.  Start with defining turf or ground covering before considering plant alternatives.  When choosing candidate plants, always base it on maximum growth size although initial plantings will be considerably smaller.  Consider placement of non-living objects to accent the landscape. Consider hours of sun vs. shade if trees are nearby.  Consider the house architecture and general theme of existing landscape plantings when selecting, so everything is compatible with each other.

Finally, on a positive thought, our southwest U. S. environment in central Texas is unique, like no other place in the country.  Let’s embrace that and see the beauty in a dry climate landscape that folks in other parts of the country can’t have.  The days of lush green lawns in central Texas never really existed and definitely are not part of today’s reality, so use your creative imagination, design skills, opportunity to create something new and enduring, and reduce your gardening stress level by embracing xeriphytic landscaping and gardening.  Xeriphytic does not mean desert-looking – it means water saving so you can still have green and colorful landscapes that say “welcome to central Texas”.

HERE IS WHAT WE DESIGNED FOR OUR NEW FRONT YARD LANDSCAPE. Click on image for enlargement.

NEXT PROJECT (Spring 2012)  – BACK AND SIDE YARD XERISCAPING!  It just makes good sense

PLANT DROUGHT SURVIVAL

While we are hibernating in our air conditioned, climate controlled home environment when daily temperatures exceed 100 and one of our worst droughts is in progress, can we have a little sympathy for our outdoor plants who don’t have such a luxury?  A gardener’s biggest stress is worrying about them when the forces of nature are being so cruel.  I mean, we love our plants and do all we can to care for them, especially in their times of trial.  So, what can we really do other than worry?  First identify what their stresses are so we can act accordingly.  A plant’s greatest stresses during drought and heat is light intensity and excessive transpiration. 

Especially between June 1 and July 31, near the summer equinox,  the longer daylight periods provide more intense light than most plants are accustomed to during the year causing some foliage to wither, die, or pale in color.  Plants affected in this way may need some temporary protection – container plants moved to a shadier area or perhaps a sun screening net placed over them to reduce the direct sunlight hitting them.  Remember that full sun in central Texas is much more intense than full sun in more northern regions of the country.  The light limestone soils in Hill Country also reflect light adding to the intensity.  

Transpiration of moisture from ground through the plant into the air is accelerated by low humidity, high temperatures (heat rises), and wind.  Plants may show foliar wilting during the heat of the day but recover during the cooler periods of dusk through dawn, but once soil moisture runs out, they may have a real problem.  Transpiration also provides cooling for the plant as water is drawn through their system, in addition to being a vital element in growth, photosynthesis, and turgidity.  So a little help for many of your plants is needed unless the plant has built in adaptations to prolonged heat and drought such as cacti, succulents, and many desert shrubs which minimize foliage size, have pubescent foliage, waxy outer layers or specialized cells for water retention to reduce transpiration.   Many desert plants put themselves into dormancy during summer as well as winter.  These plants need to be kept dry and excessive watering can be damaging to them in that state.

Knowing your individual plants, where they are native and the conditions they are adaptable to is essential to caring for them during tough times.  Placement of plants with similar care needs together makes it easier to maintain them well.   At the same time, we as gardeners must minimize our use of water during restriction periods.   So some tips on watering to achieve this follow:

1. Water less frequently but deeply and thoroughly.  Hand water around the leaf line of the plant to concentrate watering where the roots are.  Water once, then again after the first watering has had a chance to soften the soil and penetrate.  The deeper the watering, the deeper the roots will grow to places where water retention is the greatest – at depth. Sometimes it helps to use a stick to poke a holes around the plant before watering which will allow water to penetrate deeper.  
   
2. Water before 9 AM or after 6 PM to minimize evaporation.  Surface sprinklers are not effective due to evaporation.  Soaker hoses work well, but hand watering allows you an opportunity to observe the general health of your plants regularly to make sure your watering plan is effective.  It is possible to kill a plant by overwatering in summer as too much water will choke out soil air space needed for good root growth and oxygen uptake.   
3. Don’t prune or fertilize, during stressful periods.  The last thing you want to do is encourage the plant to produce new growth when it is struggling just to survive.  Wilting and cessation of growth are survival mechanisms and natural ways for plants to reduce stress during drought and heat.  Take a break from the summer heat just like the plants do. 
4. Don’t plant or transplant during stressful periods.  Plants take a period of up to a year to establish themselves and adapt to a new environment, but once established, will hold their own.  Spring and Fall are the best times to plant and transplant depending on the plant.  Drought tolerant plants will not survive until good root systems are established so extra watering and care during the first year of a plant’s life is necessary. 
5. Perhaps the best solution of all is to plant native, drought resistant and adaptive plants to the greatest extent possible in your ornamental gardens.   Good plant choices – the ounce of prevention beats a pound of cure approach – reduces stress on the gardener as well as the plants having to endure.  Do your homework and research the best plant selections for the environment where they will live.  Remember your yard has micro-environments which affect plant choice.  The trick is to find the right plant for the right spot.  By careful selection of plants, you will not only reduce your stress and that of the plant, but save money by not having to replace plants that don’t make it.  Help abounds in Austin through many organizations, publications, and individuals such as Master Gardeners, the City of Austin ‘s Grow Green program, the LBJ Wildflower Center, just to name a few.  It always helps to get second opinions to see if the sources you consult are in agreement.  

Even the most drought tolerant plants may need a little hands-on help during our prolonged drought and severe heat, while we need to conserve valuable water resources at the same time. Some effective ways  for gardeners to recycle and save water is to keep a bucket near the sink or any water source and fill it while waiting for the hot water to emerge and use it to water some plants, and/or draw water from your rain barrels (you do have one or more I hope) for use on potted plants. Try to minimize water that will go down the drain or down a storm sewer and redirect it to help your landscape.  Only water in accordance with your local water restrictions. Hand water as much as possible.  I even wash my car on the lawn so run off water benefits the lawn!

Often the best approach is to do just enough to keep our plants alive, even though they may not aesthetically look good, knowing that during better times, they will recover and once again thrive -  and oh yes, KEEP PRAYING FOR RAIN!  

Proven Winners in My Garden

There is a brand name for a plant collection called “Proven Winners” in the garden center trade that is based on testing in unknown locations under unknown conditions.  The only true “proven winners” are those plants which perform well in your own garden conditions and micro-environments over a sustained period covering all seasons.  So don’t be fooled by marketing titles, but become your own expert on which plants are proven winners for your specific use and garden conditions.  For example, in my yard, I have identified a variety of micro-environmental conditions which require very different plants and plant types. These growing conditions include drainage, amount of light, duration of light, soil depth and composition, and exposure to our severest seasonal climate conditions.  So my definition of a “proven winner” is based on a plants performance in my own garden under the conditions that exist there.  Therefore, a proven winner to me may not be the same for other gardeners.

My criteria is ornamentals that are adaptabie, durable, have high ornamental value, and low care requirements, I chose only plants that are known to be available at central Texas nursery sources. With that in mind,  my 25 highest recommended “proven winners” for Austin gardens include the following:  These have proven themselves in my NW Austin garden over the past 5 years. Keep in mind that there is no such thing as a perfect plant.

Crepe Myrtles (Lagestoemia indica) -all sizes and cultivars:  Deciduous, summer bloom, fall color, attractive bark, drought and cold tolerant, requiring only minimal pruning when young.  Only rap is they succor at the base and from roots so those need to be trimmed occasionally.  Look for varieties that are mildew resistant.  

Texas Mountain Laurel (Saphora secundifolia):  Evergreen, spring fragrant blooms, drought and cold tolerant, minimal pruning when young, can be maintained as large shrub or small tree. Only rap is they often get infested with a webworm in spring which chews new growth, but this is a temporary problem which doesn’t hurt the plant.

Elaeagnus spp.(variegated cultivars only):  colorful evergreen foliage year round, drought and cold tolerant, variegated varieties need only minimal trimming. This plant has no known disease problems

Rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus): Dediduous, summer bloom, drought tolerant, cold tolerant, blooms reminiscent of tropical hibiscus and showy, easy to propagate.

Podocarpus spp: Also known as Japanese Yew, underutilized conifer, evergreen for year round color, minimal pruning, prefers partial shade, not tolerant of alkaline soils.

Pineapple Guava (Acca sellowiana):  Evergreen, small tree or large shrub, silvery foliage underside, showy unusual blooms in spring, edible fruit in fall, ornamental bark, minimal pruning.

Desert Willow (Chilopsis linearis): Small deciduous tree with willow like foliage, loaded with exotic blooms in summer, drought and cold tolerant,  requires trimming for shape.

Yaupon Holly (Ilex vomitoria):  Evergreen small tree or large shrub, comes in upright or weeping forms, beautiful red berries for winter bird food, not tolerant of alkaline soils. drought and cold tolerant.

Mexican Bird of Paradise (Caesalpinia gillesii):  Deciduous small tree, drought and cold tolerant, beautiful and exotic yellow and red blooms in spring and summer, reblooms, fine textured foliage, prune for shape.

Double Red Knock Out Rose:  Evergreen, drought and cold tolerant, very disease resistant,  maintains compact shape with minimal pruning, showy double red blooms, maroonish winter foliage color.

Needle Palm (Rhapidophyllum hystrix):  The most cold hardy palm in the world, compact and durable.  Shiny green fan shaped leaves, tolerates sun or shade.

Meiwa Kumquat (Fortunella crassifolia ‘Meiwa’):  A drought and cold tolerant citrus plant – small compact size which produces tasty fruit in abundance in fall in addition to fragrant citrus bloom.  A little protection from northern exposure will help this plant survive to 20 degrees.   

Hesperaloe (Hesperaloe parviflora):  Evergreen, yucca-like plant with thread-like filaments is attractive year round in addition to late spring spikes of bloom, very drought and cold tolerant,  

Sanolina spp :  Also known as lavender cotton, the green form (S. virens) is more cold tolerant than the silver form (S. chamaecyparissus), but all forms are very drought tolerant, compact fine textured scented plant that blooms in spring.

Miscanthus sinensis ‘gold bar’:  Deciduous, dwarf form of Zebra grass to 2′ tall with brilliant banded variegation, prefers part shade and good soil.

Yucca spp (most species):  Evergreen, very drought, cold and soil tolerant, come in attractive variegated forms, and are carefree plants, agave weevil is only known pest..

Loropetalum chinensis:  Evergreen, purple cultivarse.g. ‘plum delight’ are most popular but can color fade in too much light,  spring and occasional fall fringe-like blooms, colorful year round foliage.

Texas Sage (Leucophyllum fruiticens):  Silverado, a dwarf compact cultivar is recommended, year round silver color, summer sporadic blooms, very drought and cold tolerant, minimal trimming

Mexican Bush Sage (Salvia leucantha ‘Santa Barbara):  Perennial that blooms throughout the summer, compact silvery ornamental foliage to boot, very drought and cold tolerant. This cultivar is a dwarf form.

Blackfoot Daisy (Melampodium leucanthum):  a small spreading perennial, evergreen, blooms all summer, drought and cold tolerant.

Agave lopantha:  Very compact Agave, drought tolerant,  pups prolifically so won’t be lost if hit by hard freeze,  variegated cultivar “quadricolor’ very colorful.

Threadleaf Arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis ‘filaformis’):  Evergreen, string like foliage, weeping habit, drought and cold tolerant, a real eye catcher with textural appeal, may be difficult to find but worth the search.

Abelia grandiflora (any variegated cultivar):  Evergreen, drought and cold tolerant, very colorful foliage for year round garden color, variegated varieties slower growing and easier to maintain.

Mexican Redbud (Cercis mexicana):  Deciduous, spring bloom, attractive small, crinkled round foliage, small tree that is drought and cold tolerant.

Nymphea x ‘helvoia;  For your small water garden, this cold hardy water lily is a miniature that blooms yellow in perfusion all summer long.  

For more information about the plants above, query the internet using their botanical names. 

My garden is a continuous trial garden where, if space is available, I will try new plants and plant varieties that my research indicates are suitable for our area.  I have plants growing currently that have promise for getting my “proven winner” designation but need more time to prove themselves in the garden.  The list above is certainly not complete and part of the fun of gardening is the trial and evaluation of different plants.  Often, a plant won’t grow well in one area but thrive in another so knowing the correct location for it is a factor in whether is is a winner or not.   Gardening is a continuous learning process just as a garden is always an ongoing project.  So share your successes with other gardeners. We are both teachers and students at the same time.    I am always on the hunt for another proven winner. 

WHAT GETS CREATED MUST BE MAINTAINED

Fact and reality check:  There is no such thing as a maintenance free garden.  For every garden bed that is prepared and every plant that is planted, there is a continuing burden (or joy if you are a real gardener), to maintain that which has been created.  These maintenance chores (or delights if you are a real gardener) are year round, and exist as long as your garden exists.  It all depends on how much you take pride in the appearance of your garden (which you do if you are a real gardener). A few common sense strategies include:

Not creating garden beds that you know you won’t have time to properly maintain.  An uncared for garden often looks worse than no garden at all.   This is the biggest mistake many gardeners make – biting off more than they can chew.  We all long to maximize and expand our beautiful gardens but must consider the “hereafter” maintenance factor.

Careful choice of plants that will minimize maintenance problems and requirements.  There are so many choices available beginning with native and adaptive plants that will grow well with minimal intervention.  Understand a plant’s growth habit and what will be required to keep it in scale with your other plantings.  Plant according to a plant’s ultimate size, not for a “here and now” instant effect.  There are dwarf and slower growing varieties of many of our favorite plants which reduce maintenance.

Garden area design that facilitates necessary maintenance tasks – e.g. can you mow and edge easily around plants and beds, access bed areas easily for weeding and trimming, and place plants with similar maintenance requirements together.

Use preventative maintenance strategies that will minimize care requirement for plants and garden beds such as mulch in spring to preserve ground moisture and/or provide weed infestation barriers, use compost to build up soil health and nutrients so supplemental fertilization won’t be needed,  and don’t put off any maintenance chore to the point it becomes a major project. Pulling a weed one at a time as they pop up is better than re-cultivating an entire bed that has become infested with weeds.

The best way to approach garden maintenance is to take a garden walk daily or several times a week to closely observe and note what is happening.  An ounce of prevention beats a pound of cure if any problems are spotted early and treated before they become serious.  As a fringe benefit, you get to enjoy seeing your garden in it’s fullest more often.  Take a camera with you and look for that photo-op.  An ornamental garden is meant to be enjoyed, stimulate your senses, offer tranquility and a sense of wonder about nature’s living plants and organisms, not become a laborious part of life that is dreaded.  I’d much rather grow fewer things well, than try to grow many things poorly.

I know my own physical and time limitations and respect them in my gardening practices, making sure that the ability to properly maintain the beautiful gardens I’ve created is a priority, otherwise, why garden at all?

Gardening with Bambi

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Gardening with deer is a love/hate relationship.  We love living among and seeing wildlife, BUT, “stay out of my garden”.   Why are deer such a problem to gardeners? Destruction of their natural habitat has led to their adaptation to our suburban environment.  Vehicles do more to control deer population than natural predators. Overpopulation results. Deer will eat anything when hungry enough.  Male deer’s antler rubbing damages and can kill young trees.

Understanding deer is part of the resolution to this problem.  Their primary food is tender broadleaf plant leaves, twigs, and branches, but not grasses.  They are territorial and have habitual traffic patterns that they follow within their area.  The hungrier a deer gets, the more difficult they are to control.  Summer,and early fall tend to be a period of food shortages.  Deer are naturally curious to sample new plantings.

Some other things for the gardener to consider is that ornamental  plants may lose their deer resistance characteristics thru plant breeding.  For example the Lantana you buy at a nursery may be hybridized and not as resistant to deer as the native Lantana. New growth may be nipped but the rest of the plant untouched since they favor tender new growth.  Deer population pressure creates a source of/demand for food which makes deer more eager to eat almost anything.  Their exposure to human presence and their comfort level with being around humans makes it more difficult to ward them off.  Never feed deer.  Unestablished plants with tender growth pull up easily if nipped so may need temporary protection until the roots “dig in”.   And did you know that deer are State of TX property (TPWD)?  As such, it is illegal to kill, trap and relocate or injure these animals without express permit from the Texas Parks and Wildlife Dept.  

All this begs the question, “How do we manage deer”?  There are four methods.

1.  Use of non-preferred landscape plants -  the least expensive, most effective way.  

2.  8 ft tall physical barriers & fencing – the most expensive but an effective method.

3.  Scare devices – motion generated.  These are good investments and fairly effective.  

4. Scent-based repellants – the most expensive and least effective way since they require continuous reapplication.

Let’s focus on non-preferred plants.  They have five characteristics, strong, unpleasant odors; bitter, disagreeable taste; prickly &/or stiff textured foliage, fuzzy foliage (pubescent), or contain a milky sap which is caustic &/or sticky.  Some examples follow but remember that this is just a very small sampling of deer resistant plants.  

Plants with unpleasant scented resistance include:  Rosemary, Mexican Oregano, Copper Canyon Daisy, Mexican Mint Marigold,  Sanolina, Lantana, Wax Myrtle, Sumac, or any strong scented herbs.  

Plants with unpleasant taste include: TX Mountain Laurel, Flame Acanthus, Thryallis, Blackfoot Daisy, Esperanza, Plumbago, Shrimp Plant, Texas Betony, Desert Willow, Rock Rose, Skullcap, Columbine, Coreopsis, Eleagnus, Mock Orange, Sages, Flowering and Senna

Plants with prickly or tough foliage  include:  Agarita, Basket Grass, Fragrant Mimosa,  Fan Palms, Cacti, Yucca, Pomegranite, Hollies, Agaves, and  Sago palms (really a cycad).

Plants with fuzzy foliage include:  Artemesia, Black-eyed Susan, Lamb’s Ear, Coneflower, Wooly Butterfly Bush, Wooly Stemodia, Texas Sage, and Germander

Plants with sticky, caustic sap include:   Oleander, Confederate Jasmine, Euphorbia family, and Arizona Cypress

When looking at deer resistant plant lists, there are no guarantees that they are deer proof – remember deer will eat anything if hungry enough.  You should place wire fencing up to 8’ to protect young trees until at least 6” diameter or barriers around new plantings until established.  Consider cost vs benefit in choice of method you use.  It all depends on your individual circumstances. Learn to live with and enjoy wildlife.  The goal is to minimize damage, not eliminate it. Become familiar with deer population habits.  Assess needs for plant protection – have a plan.  

Some good resources to help you garden with deer include:

1. City of Austin “Grow Green” book, 52 pgs, free at garden centers within Austin.

2. Grow Green Program: Deer Resistant Design Phamplet – free

3. Website:  City of Austin Grow Green Program  –   www.ci.austin.tx.us/growgreen

4. Texas Cooperative Extension Article “Gardening in Deer Country ……….

http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/travis/docs/gardening_in_deer_country.pdf

Enjoy our native wildlife and a beautiful garden at the same time.  It is possible!

THE PROBLEM WITH MANY PLANT NURSERIES

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“Let the buyer beware” is often appropriate to describe the marketing of plants at your local nursery and garden center. Overall, plants are purchased based on consumer impulse and visual appeal rather than real knowledge of their characteristics, growing requirements, and potential.  This article was inspired by a recent visit to one of my favorite nurseries that has been noted for carrying native and adaptive plants recommended and proven to grow well and be environmentally friendly in central Texas.  I was shocked to see Rhododendron (yes the kind that thrives in the wet, cool, northern parts of the country which needs highly acidic, organic soils), Red-stem Dogwood and Lilacs which require significant winter freezing and acidic soil as part of their growth requirements,  along with several other plants that absolutely won’t make it here.   Plants like these are “dead upon arrival”  in central Texas gardens!    The uninformed gardener may buy this based on seeing pretty pictures of them in bloom in magazines or books not appropriate for our region, or remembering them from a past experience, but are unaware of how they are wasting their time and money to even attempt to grow them in central TX.  

I offer these tips to avoid these pitfalls when plant shopping:

1. Know about the plants you are considering before buying.  There is an abundance  of region specific educational resources to help you either on the internet or through local garden organizations.
2. Go plant shopping with a specific list or plants in mind that have been researched for suitability in central Texas, and don’t impullse buy when there.  Write down the name of the plant you might see and like and research it first before buying.
3.   If you see “inappropriate” plants being offered for sale, don’t be tempted to try them   and let the management know about it.   This is an indication that the buyer for that nursery is either unqualified or uneducated in the horticultural business.  
4. Many plants marketed in nurseries (if labeled at all) are incorrectly labeled.  I have noticed a beautiful selection of succulents at a local nursery with labels that merely said “cactus”. They were not cacti to begin with and knowing the correct identity will help you know how to best grow it. Similarly, Bromeliads are often marketed with labels that merely say “Bromeliad”.  I will not buy a plant unless I know it’s real identity.  

Nurseries and plant centers stocking “dead on planting” selections need to be reported to the “Bad Business Bureau”.  They obviously don’t know what they are selling or if they do, they don’t care so long as a sale is made.   Perhaps the fault lies in the wholesaler and growers who convince local nurseries to buy inappropriate plant materials.  How can a grower in California, or Florida, or Minnesota know more about which plants will do well and please the gardener in central Texas.  We are blessed in the Austin area to have outstanding sources of information to help you select the right plants, save money by not having to replace them or use expensive and valuable water to keep them alive.  The Austin Grow Green program is a good place to start looking. The City of Austin Grow Green book free at any nursery or garden center is a must for every gardener in the Austin area.

There are plants being marketed inappropriately that can’t make it through the hard freezes or extremely hot and dry summers or intense light levels we often encounter in central Texas.  Some plants actually require a certain amount of freezing conditions and colder winters to grow well  in addition to some that can’t withstand temperatures below or above a certain level.  Some can’t tolerate the combination of wet and cold, and some can’t tolerate the intense summer sunlight in central Texas.  Plants grown in another region of the country are acclimated to light conditions there and are listed as “full sun” plants there whereas our light intensity in central Texas is too intense for them so they prefer and grow better in light shade.  So you can’t always believe the information that is on the labels.   Bottom line is to know and learn about the plants in or contemplated for your landscape before venturing out to restock your garden.

I have noticed the retail prices of nursery plants have gone up significantly in 2011, probably due to increased fuel and transportation costs.  At the same time, most average consumers in difficult economic times are having to make their dollars stretch further.   This is all the more reason you may want to become better informed about smart plant selections beforehand so what you purchase will be a lasting, endurable, and environmentally wise investment rather than a waste of time and money.   


Another warning about Nursery and Garden Center products.   They market products that are harmful to your plants, your health, and the environment.  The # 1 product to avoid is “Weed and Feed” as they may contains a toxic herbicide called atrazine which if used around your shrubs and trees will kill them! It should not be used on residential property at all because, he roots of trees cover the entire property of most lots.  Atrazine is also poisoning our clean water sources which directly affects human health.  Furthermore, the two ingredients in these products aren’t suitable to be applied at the same time. The pre-emergent herbicide part of the products needs to be applied about 2 months earlier than the soluble fertilizer part of the products.  Some of the specific products that you should avoid are Scotts Bonus S, Vigero, or any labeled Weed and Feed and/or contain atrozine.  


And as if that isn’t  bad enough, let’s add the marketing of introduced, invasive plants like Ligustrum/Privet, and berry producing Nandina when it is known that these plants are proliferating, threatening and overtaking our native plants.  Our natural environment is fragile and can easily be irreparably damaged by using invasive plants in the landscpe.,

So,  shame, shame, on any local nursery or garden center who make bad choices and try to pass them on to the unwary consumers.   When you find a reliable, reputable, and knowledgeable nursery, reward them with your business.  The nursery business is a tough one, but also needs to be ethical.  Seems like it’s all about the dollar and making sales regardless of the consequences.   Plants are more than just an item of merchandise, they are living things that you want to keep alive and cherish.  If the consumer won’t bother to educate themselves before plant shopping, then the nursery business should have an ethical responsibility to sell appropriate plant materials.

A PLANT’S LIFE – INDOORS!

Indoor plants (or house plants as they are more commonly called) consists of any plant that will grow well in household conditions.  These conditions are generally low to medium humidity, reduced or low light, minimally varying temperatures, container growing, with human intervention such as manual watering.

The main purpose of growing plants indoors is to provide a sense of nature within the home or space.  Green plants also absorb CO2 and release oxygen for a mutually healthier environment.  Plants add a calming and natural decor to indoor space as well. 

Most indoor plants are of tropical or subtropical origin.  These are plants that would not survive most outdoor environments unless related to their native growing conditions.  They range from very large (such as palms) to very small (such as african violets), most of which grow in their natural environments as understory plants to the taller canopy of the tropical forest regions. These conditions are somewhat similar to most household or indoor environments.  

Some good indoor plants – referenced in this article

Watering and fertilizing should be proportional to light levels.  Plants growing in very low light require less frequent watering and nutrient supplement because their growth is inhibited by lower light.  Fertilizer stimulates new growth but without proper levels of light, to aid in photosynthesis, can become toxic to an indoor plant.

Overwatering is the number one cause of death to indoor plants.   As container grown plants in low evaporative conditions, moisture is retained longer and overwatering causes root rot and soil borne diseases.

Many tropical/indoor plants are sensitive to specific or levels of certain chemicals in our city water systems and will react by showing necrosis along edges of the foliage.  Examples include Chlorophytum (spider plant), Rhaphs palm, Dracaena, Spathephyllum and most plants in the Araceae family.  It is always best to use collected rain water or distilled water for indoor plants. An organically rich, well draining soil is preferred by most house plants    A loose organic soil allows more aeration for the confined roots and stimulates healthy root growth.  Cacti and succulents prefer a mineral based very well drained soil.Being isolated from natural predators, indoor plants can become a target for small pests such as spider mites, aphids, white fly, scale, and other sucking type of insects.  Also  the lack of drying from natural sunlight and wind can cause fungi and mildews to infest indoor plants, so water indoor plants from the base. Most insect and disease problems can be solved without use of harmful chemicals.  It is very important to remove all dying and dead leaves and portions of a plant to prevent spread of disease.

Know the plants you are growing around children and pets.  Dieffenbachia, pothos, philodendron, and Euphorbias are examples of frequently used indoor plants that are harmful if chewed on.  

During summer, most house plants enjoy being outdoors in shade and higher humidity and will respond with healthier and fuller growth.  However, NEVER take a plant that has been grown in low light and place it in a much brighter light and vice versa, All plants require a period of gradual acclimation to light changes, perhaps up to a month or more of “light  adjustment therapy”.  

Examples of plants that do well indoors are  Agloenema (Chinese Evergreen),  Draceana,  Dieffenbachia, Philodendron and their Araceae plant family relatives, Sansevieria and other shade tolerant succulents,,  Rhapis palm,  Chamaedora (parlor) palms, Scindapsis (pothos), Gesneriads and the ZZ plant (Zamicaulus zamiafolia).  The horticultural trade had developed, with the exception of palms and ZZ,  so many attractive and different cultivars of these plants to add variety in appearance and color.  These sports or mutations are propagated/cloned asexually.

Many tropical plants are never meant nor will adapt to being indoors.  Examples are the colorful Crotons, Poinsettias at Christmas, Ficus, and most flowering tropicals.  They require and demand higher light and/or humidity levels.   The finicky Ficus will drop it’s leaves when moved to even slightly changed light levels.  So, be aware that plants sold as indoor plants may not be meant to be grown indoors and choose only those proven to adapt to indoor conditions well.